I had a day off and after a morning at the gym, did a lot of reading about Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) specifically on Aconcagua. Yes, yes I can read, but it was very difficult finding a coloring book about AMS! The pictures are easy though. Anyway...the little gizmo pictured above is a Pulse Oximeter. This is a very popular tool on the slopes of the mountain. I have my own pulse ox and have used it on other climbs.
Quite simply, it uses red light to measure how much of your blood (hemoglobin) is saturated, in this case, saturated with Oxygen (O2) and is measured in percentages. This number is call your SPO2. A fancy name for how much oxygen is in your blood. In the ICU, this is a standard piece of equipment that we hook you up to upon arrival and then keep measuring it around the clock. A decreasing or low SPO2 may portend problems or a declining respiratory status. Or, it may mean you have cold fingers and you are just fine!
The percentage of oxygen at sea level is 21 percent. The percentage of oxygen on the summit of Aconcagua is 21 percent! So why is oxygen such a big deal on the top of very high mountains? Well, the percent of oxygen is the same however, there are much fewer molecules available to breathe when gaining significant altitude. It is like placing a drop of food coloring in a small glass of water and then placing that same drop in a swimming pool. It is still 1 drop, it's just very spread out! That 21 percent just does not go as far when you get to very high places.
This Pulse Ox also measures heart rate. Upon arrival to base camp, one of the first places we will check into is the Medical Tent.
There they take your vitals which includes SPO2 and heart rate. It is "normal" for a body to have a lower SPO2 and higher heart rate when gaining altitude. Base Camp is at almost 14,000 feet. That is close to the highest I have ever climbed. My SPO2 on our last trek to that altitude was in the mid 90s and heart rate in the 70-80s. In the ICU we will put a tube down your throat place you on a ventilator when you dip into the low 80s, On the top of Aconcagua our SPO2 will be in the 60s!!! NO TUBE and NO VENTILATOR!
To get out of Base Camp however, one must clear medical...just like the navy. The expedition physician checks your vitals again on the day of departure also. I pray I meet standards!!! They will hold you at base camp or take you off the mountain if you appear ill or there is evidence of not acclimatizing properly. If you meet the minimum numbers, they put one last eyeball on you and send you on your way up the mountain. All guides have a Pulse Ox with them and with most companies, they will check your readings multiple times a day to ensure you are acclimatizing appropriately. The human body must adjust to changes in altitude and it takes time. This is why the expedition is three weeks long.
My only fear on this trip is that my lungs will let me down. I will be in the most outstanding physical and cardiovascular shape of my life. Unfortunately, AMS does not care what kind of shape you are in. Bouts of raging nausea, severe High Altitude Headaches (HAH), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and the deadliest of all, High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). Research has indicated that all of these maladies have very little if any, correlation with physical conditioning. I have experienced the nausea and headaches, and one bad bout of HAPE. Bad things happen when you go up too high and too fast. Once again, this is why it takes three weeks.
I have a high level of respect for the mountain and quite a bit of experience listening to my body! Slow is good! Altitude medications are good! I pray it is a safe and physically uneventful climb. I absolutely DO NOT want a yellow helicopter ride off that mountain!