TOOLS OF THE TRADE: CRAMPONS

The next few posts will be highlighting some of the tools and clothing required to climb big mountains. I always learn new things when I do research for the blog. In keeping with the theme of the blog, I will work upward from my feet toward my head and attempt to put my choice of tool or clothing in the blog. So that being said, the first item to touch the Last Rock will most likely be crampons. That is unless I am so hypoxic that I do a face plant on the last rock.  In that case it will be my teeth!  For now let us focus on the crampons. Those spikey things that you seen on mountain climber's boots are crampons. They are a traction device that aids with travel over ice and snow.  The first set was designed in 1908 and had 10 teeth. Crampons attach to boots in one of three ways, step-in, hybrid and strap bindings. The type pictured below is a "step-in" which is one of the easiest to use with big heavy gloves.

Crampons are made of alloy steel, aluminum or a combination of the two. In the 1930s, the two forward slanted pointes were added to create a 12 point system. There are many variations of the points, each one used in special situations. I will be using a 12 point, step-in crampon similar to the one pictured above. The plastic or rubber areas on the base of the crampon is an "anti-balling" system to keep snow and ice from building up on the crampon. 

Crampons are graded C1, C2 and C3 relative to their flexibility and compatibility to different style of boots. I will not be involved in "technical mountaineering" on this trip so my boots will fit into the C2 category.

And finally we will end with crampon care. They are expensive and you life may perhaps depend on their ability to function well. Take care of them and they will take care of you!

Crampon Care

On a typical climb, crampons can take a lot of abuse from walking and climbing on mixed snow-and-rock routes. Here are some tips on how to keep them in peak condition.

Prior to every outing, be sure to inspect your crampons before you put them in use.

• Check for loose screws and rivets. Tighten or replace as needed.
• Check for worn straps and buckles. Replace as needed.
• Ensure that the bails are in good shape and still fit the radius of your boots.
• Consider your boot/crampon interface: Do your boot welts still ensure a secure toe and heel fit?
• Carry a wrench, bailing wire and spare parts such as straps, bails or screws.

Sharpen the Points

• Crampon points need to be sharpened after use, especially if you've crossed rock.
• Use a flat mil bastard (hand file), making sure to file in the direction of the file's teeth.
• Do not use a grinding wheel, as it generates heat that can weaken the metal by changing the temper of the steel.
• File the side and points as sharp as possible, being careful to maintain a straight line from frame to tip.
• Straighten any bent points if possible.

Protect Yourself

• Sharp teeth make crampons perform better on delicate ice, but they can also wreak havoc on your clothes, skin and ropes. Your protection options:
• Padded crampon case: The most convenient choice, usually made from puncture-resistant nylon.
• Rubber point covers: The less bulky, less expensive option.

Storage

Be sure your crampons are dry before storing. If you are storing them for the season, coat them with a light oil or a water-displacement spray such as WD-40.