STILL ON THE HORSE!

The seemingly endless training march to the summit of Aconcagua continues. Ever onward and upward. There have been a few minor setbacks along the way. These small bumps in the road include knee surgery and a broken left foot. The training actually did slow for a bit but now I am back at it full bore. The key now is training without getting hurt again, more and still. It is almost too late now for a recovery from a major injury prior to the trip.

Training days consists of hikes, hill climbs, Life Fitness Power Mill and Cybex Total Body Arc Trainer. Add to this a 40lb weight vest and life becomes interesting for the creaky joints and tired legs. Core training gets the abs screaming and White Mountain makes the lungs burn.  Way more fun than any one should be allowed to have!!!











I have destroyed my plastic while shopping for gear and have a truck load of new equipment and clothing. I will continue the gear updates soon. Stay tuned!

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: LA SPORTIVA G2 SM MOUNTAINEERING BOOT INITIAL REVIEW

Here is another review by Sierra Ascents of the new La Sportiva G2 SM Mountaineering Boot. I can't wait to get mine and try them out! Enjoy!

Live your dreams!!!

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: PURCHASED!

Time to commit! OK, I took the dive and started buying my gear from the ground up!  I began, as in this blog, with my crampons. For this route straight up Aconcagua I selected the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro.

They are non-technical stainless steel crampons with anti-balling plates. Stainless steel weighs less than chromoly steel and is stronger than aluminum. Anti-balling means the snow and ice will not build up on the bottom of the crampon and make your boots feel like they weight about 50 pound each! They are also "step-in" with a dial adjustment which means I will not have to tie anything with huge mittens and gloves on. That is a REALLY big deal! After climbing with Cory on Mt. Baldy we learned quite a few lessons with crampons. I am not wearing them on my bare feet so check this out. I originally had decided on the La Sportiva Spantik boot. That is until they just released a new boot. So I bought this...

This is the La Sportiva G2 SM Mountaineering Boot. It is a double boot with an integrated Gaiter to keep the feet dry and toasty. They are light for mountaineering boots but best of all they have a very unique closure device. They are fitted with the Dual Boa Closure System.  No trying to tie my shoes with heavy mittens or gloves. The Boa Closure System has been used in many different sports and industries and has now made its way into mountaineering.

These are some great videos! I decided to shop around to see where I could find the best prices and discovered that prices were pretty much the same everywhere I looked. Except for one place. Moosejaw.com. Listed prices were the same but they will give a 20 percent discount to Military, Military Retirees and First Responders!  You have to be verified through https://www.id.me/. Shipping is free plus each purchase gets you an in-store credit for other SWAG. They also have an exceptional return policy.  My feet are going to be very happy!  LIVE YOUR DREAM!!!

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: SOCKS!

How do we keep the Troll Feet and Piggies warm when it is -10F in the sun and the wind is howling? The answer is circulation, Socks and more Socks! 

Dressing the feet: We do not go out in below-freezing weather in a summer jacket, so why would we put summer socks on our feet? Larger socks trap more warm air next to the skin and provide improved insulation. As we layer up our bodies for the cold, so shall we do the same for the feet! Many individuals wear two or three layers of socks. My inner boot will count as a significantly large layer so I will add a WigWam Dry Foot Liner to soak up the sweat and moisture in addition to blister prevention.

Next to the skin.

To help me keep the 10 little piggies warm and in good shape, I have chosen the over-the-calf Thorlo Beyond Mountaineering Sock.

For the cold and higher altitude.

 For the trip on and off the mountain I will be wearing Thorlo Beyond Trekking Socks.  

Everyday Hiking.

Thorlo for the win!

My boots will be up to one size larger than normal boots in order to fit the layers of socks and still be able to have appropriate circulation to the piggies. Many people put on boots that are too small with too many layers of socks and the circulation takes a hit.  I like my toes very much and am sort of attached to them. So if I have to spend a little extra coin to make sure they stay pink then so be it.  

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: FOOTWEAR

Boots, more Boots and then Crocks! In the last post I discussed Crampons, the spiked shoe like thingy which helps me hang on to the "Last Rock" if it is icy on the top. In this post I will discuss some of the footwear I will use on the mountain and the boot which I have chosen to which the crampons will be attached. 

I will be leaving in winter (January) in North America and arrive in the middle of summer (January) in South America.  It is not unusual for temps to be in the high 90s or 100s when the trip begins in Mendoza. This is a stark contrast to the single digit or negative temps on the summit a few weeks and almost 23,000 feet later! I will be packing three types of footwear for different segments of the trip. The long walk in to basecamp will be fairly warm and with a somewhat heavy pack to lug around. To complete this section of the journey I will use a mid-weight backpacking boot. I need the boot for ankle and arch support with the pack. My choice of boot is the Salomon QUEST 4D 2 GTX. 

My current Salomons have over 800 miles on them and have only just recently been re-soled. Salomon makes a solid boot with a wide toe box which my feet love! 

While in camp, I do not want to go barefoot or for that matter, wear the boots pictured above for any longer than I need to.  The feet need to feel loved!  My choice of "camp" foot wear lower on the mountain and in base camp will be the awesome and occasionally maligned Crocks! They weigh almost nothing, pack well and can be used in water crossings. The PERFECT camp shoe!!!

Finally, comes one of the biggest expenditures of the expedition. Double Plastic Mountaineering Boots. These boots are used at high altitude and when it gets REALLY cold. The outer boot is a high grade ABS Plastic with a lacing system that is easily used with heavy gloves. They have an "inner" boot which is heavily insulated that can be removed each evening when wet and placed in ones sleeping bag during the night to dry. I have chosen the Spantik Mountaineering Boot by La Sportiva. 

I have read countless reviews on mountaineering boots. This boot is not one of the lightest but is absolutely one of the warmest! I gasped when pricing the boot, but a friend of mine asked me "how much are your toes worth?" I want to keep my little piggies so I will be purchasing the Spantik with the very nice inner boot.

Spantik inner boot. A double boot allows this inner part to be removed so it can be warmed and dried in a sleeping bag overnight. This is what makes a double boot ideal for extreme cold in places like Alaska.

Credit: Luke Lydiard

The "inner boot" can also be worn around camp after it gets too cold for the Crocks! I wonder how stinky the sleeping bag will get after drying these sweaty things in it for a couple of weeks?  WoooHooo!!! This boot is Crampon ready and has been highly recommended by a close personal friend who been to some VERY high places. 

One of the challenges with getting mountaineering boots in San Diego is there are no local mountains high enough or cold enough to warrant selling them here. They must be ordered online and then returned if they do not fit properly. Fit properly...they come in Euro sizes!  I will give my Euro 43.5 size a shot and see if it fits, good thing I am starting early.  

TOOLS OF THE TRADE: CRAMPONS

The next few posts will be highlighting some of the tools and clothing required to climb big mountains. I always learn new things when I do research for the blog. In keeping with the theme of the blog, I will work upward from my feet toward my head and attempt to put my choice of tool or clothing in the blog. So that being said, the first item to touch the Last Rock will most likely be crampons. That is unless I am so hypoxic that I do a face plant on the last rock.  In that case it will be my teeth!  For now let us focus on the crampons. Those spikey things that you seen on mountain climber's boots are crampons. They are a traction device that aids with travel over ice and snow.  The first set was designed in 1908 and had 10 teeth. Crampons attach to boots in one of three ways, step-in, hybrid and strap bindings. The type pictured below is a "step-in" which is one of the easiest to use with big heavy gloves.

Crampons are made of alloy steel, aluminum or a combination of the two. In the 1930s, the two forward slanted pointes were added to create a 12 point system. There are many variations of the points, each one used in special situations. I will be using a 12 point, step-in crampon similar to the one pictured above. The plastic or rubber areas on the base of the crampon is an "anti-balling" system to keep snow and ice from building up on the crampon. 

Crampons are graded C1, C2 and C3 relative to their flexibility and compatibility to different style of boots. I will not be involved in "technical mountaineering" on this trip so my boots will fit into the C2 category.

And finally we will end with crampon care. They are expensive and you life may perhaps depend on their ability to function well. Take care of them and they will take care of you!

Crampon Care

On a typical climb, crampons can take a lot of abuse from walking and climbing on mixed snow-and-rock routes. Here are some tips on how to keep them in peak condition.

Prior to every outing, be sure to inspect your crampons before you put them in use.

• Check for loose screws and rivets. Tighten or replace as needed.
• Check for worn straps and buckles. Replace as needed.
• Ensure that the bails are in good shape and still fit the radius of your boots.
• Consider your boot/crampon interface: Do your boot welts still ensure a secure toe and heel fit?
• Carry a wrench, bailing wire and spare parts such as straps, bails or screws.

Sharpen the Points

• Crampon points need to be sharpened after use, especially if you've crossed rock.
• Use a flat mil bastard (hand file), making sure to file in the direction of the file's teeth.
• Do not use a grinding wheel, as it generates heat that can weaken the metal by changing the temper of the steel.
• File the side and points as sharp as possible, being careful to maintain a straight line from frame to tip.
• Straighten any bent points if possible.

Protect Yourself

• Sharp teeth make crampons perform better on delicate ice, but they can also wreak havoc on your clothes, skin and ropes. Your protection options:
• Padded crampon case: The most convenient choice, usually made from puncture-resistant nylon.
• Rubber point covers: The less bulky, less expensive option.

Storage

Be sure your crampons are dry before storing. If you are storing them for the season, coat them with a light oil or a water-displacement spray such as WD-40.

GETTING REAL!

ACONCAGUA BASE CAMP WEB CAM

A new year begins and my feet begin it with a right knee that has had a 100,000 mile tune up! The busted up knee actually feels better than the "good" knee now.  Imagine that! I have started taking very long walks, biking and as of yesterday, busting it out on the Stair Master.  Things are looking good. 

Speaking of yesterday, decisions were made by our group. Big decisions! We have decided to use Sierra Mountaineering International as our guide company and we will be led by Kurt Wedberg. 

I am very pleased with this decision. SMI is an excellent company that came with personal recommendations and Kurt has a ton of experience. Experience like three summits of Everest!  In addition to picking our guide company we have also selected a start date for the trip to the "Last Rock".  Our expedition will begin bright and early on January 2, 2017 as we fly out of San Diego headed to Mendoza, Argentina.  Let the fun begin!